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Vanity or Vice

Every file · 378

The Index

The section pages are curated, which means somebody decided what belonged. This page did not. Everything published, newest first, including the pieces that never fit a theme and were never going to.

Sep 13, 2026 · Every Skin in the Room

Two Different Purchases, Sold From the Same Shelf

Treating melasma and depigmenting healthy skin use overlapping ingredients and completely different evidence, risk and endpoints. Nobody sorting the shelf has any interest in telling them…

Sep 13, 2026 · Every Skin in the Room

Nobody Taught You to Check the Bottom of Your Foot

Acral melanoma accounts for 0.8% of melanomas in non-Hispanic white patients and 19.1% in Hispanic Black, American Indian, Alaska Native and Asian/Pacific Islander patients. The standard…

Sep 13, 2026 · Every Skin in the Room

The Sunscreen Trials Were Run in Queensland

There is no randomized controlled trial showing that routine sunscreen use lowers skin cancer incidence in a majority-Black, South Asian or East Asian population. The mechanism…

Sep 13, 2026 · Every Skin in the Room

Your Skin Has Already Run the Test

There is no validated tool that tells a mixed-heritage person how their pigment will behave. There is, however, a decade of evidence that ancestry predicts more…

Sep 4, 2026 · Makeup Lookbooks

Cold Takes the Color Out of You

Almost all event-beauty advice assumes a hot room and a sliding face; a stone cellar at twelve degrees in August fails in the opposite direction, and…

Sep 4, 2026 · Makeup Lookbooks

The Lipstick Goes On After the Cake

Dessert is served in the first ten minutes at this dinner, which moves every beauty decision you would normally make for hour five to hour zero.