Skip to content
Vanity or Vice

Every file · 378

The Index

The section pages are curated, which means somebody decided what belonged. This page did not. Everything published, newest first, including the pieces that never fit a theme and were never going to.

Sep 13, 2026 · Every Skin in the Room

Faces Do Not All Fall the Same Way

Descriptions of how aging differs across ancestries exist, and they are qualitative. There is no volumetric dataset. Meanwhile 100 percent of Malay participants in one study…

Sep 13, 2026 · Every Skin in the Room

It Does Not Look Greasy. It Looks Like Pale Petals.

The largest meta-analysis of seborrheic dermatitis covers 1,260,163 people and disaggregates by country, not by race. Which means the claim that it is more common in…

Sep 13, 2026 · Every Skin in the Room

Forty Days for the Mole, Twenty-Two for the Botox

A secret-shopper study called 186 dermatology clinics with three different scenarios. A Medicaid patient with a mole concerning for melanoma waited 40 days. A privately insured…

Sep 13, 2026 · Every Skin in the Room

The AI Made the Gap Worse

Dermatologists were 4 to 5 percentage points less accurate on dark skin. Adding AI decision support raised everyone's accuracy — and widened the skin-tone gap for…

Sep 13, 2026 · Every Skin in the Room

Some of Them Presented Decades Later

Twelve patients from the Bronx, all Hispanic, nine on Medicaid, with complications from silicone and biopolymer injections performed in five countries and by unlicensed providers at…

Sep 13, 2026 · Every Skin in the Room

One in Five, Twice, Four Years Apart

Two JAMA studies, one in 2004 and one in 2008, tested Ayurvedic products for lead, mercury and arsenic. Both found detectable heavy metals in about 20…

Sep 13, 2026 · Every Skin in the Room

The Himba Have Been Wearing Iron Oxide for Centuries

Dermatology spent the last decade discovering that iron oxide is the only thing in a sunscreen that blocks visible light. A 2022 materials-science paper measured Namibian…

Sep 13, 2026 · Every Skin in the Room

The Allergy Nobody Warns Brides About

Turmeric has a genuine clinical literature, a genuine contact dermatitis case literature, and a bridal tradition that puts it on a face for days in the…

Sep 13, 2026 · Every Skin in the Room

Thirty-Nine Percent Lead, By Weight

The CDC documented a mother and her four children with elevated blood lead from a traditional eye cosmetic. The product tested at 390,000 parts per million.…

Sep 13, 2026 · Every Skin in the Room

Black Henna Is Not Henna

Market samples have been measured at 29.5 percent para-phenylenediamine — five times the legal ceiling for a hair dye, applied directly to skin, for hours, usually…

Sep 13, 2026 · Every Skin in the Room

Two Years In, Two Thirds Got Their Faces Back

Ruxolitinib cream's headline number was 30 percent at six months, which reads as a disappointment. At two years it was 66.1 percent and still climbing. Also:…

Sep 13, 2026 · Every Skin in the Room

Seen by the Dermatologist. Not Given the Drug.

In a cohort of 29,928 acne patients, Black patients were more likely to see a dermatologist than white patients and had 0.39 times the odds of…

Sep 13, 2026 · Every Skin in the Room

“Shave Closer” Is Exactly Backwards

Pseudofolliculitis barbae affects somewhere between 45 and 83 percent of men who shave and have tightly curled hair. The standard advice makes it worse by design,…