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Vanity or Vice

Products and Devices

Products + Devices / Object Files

Decide what the category has to prove before the brand enters the room.

An object gets taken apart the same way a claim does — the eight passes — with two extra columns that only hardware needs: how it fails, and what a year of owning it actually costs. A good product does not need to be medically necessary. A beautiful product does not get to borrow clinical authority from the packaging.

I am exactly the person beautiful packaging works on. There is a small crow somewhere in my brain that still believes the heavier jar may know something. That is why pleasure gets its own column here instead of being smuggled into the evidence.

Last updated: September 1, 2026 · Live category, product and device files linked below

Start here

Shop the job before you shop the brand.

Framework

Product Category Intelligence

Define what the category owns, what changes performance, how it fails, what a year costs, and which part of the price is buying pleasure.

Open the framework →

Evidence

Beauty Evidence Has Levels

Ingredient research, mechanism, finished-product testing and marketing translation are different evidence objects.

Read the evidence ladder →

Buy by category

The buying guides are live.

Cleanser

Choose by removal load

What it has to remove, how skin feels afterward, and whether the formula makes the rest of the routine easier.

Choose a cleanser →

Moisturizer

Choose by barrier job

Dryness level, vehicle, routine fit and whether the finished formula earns its repair language.

Choose a moisturizer →

Sunscreen

Choose from the protection label outward

Protection first; then cast, eye behavior, tint, makeup compatibility, reapplication and recurring cost.

Choose sunscreen →

Vitamin C

Do not let 20% win by default

Exact form, stability, packaging, finished-product evidence, tolerability and whether the bottle survives ownership.

Choose vitamin C →

Retinoid

Settle the molecule before the percentage

Tretinoin, adapalene, retinal and retinol do not share the same regulatory lane or evidence file.

Choose a retinoid →

Pigment

Name the pigment problem first

Brightening is not one job. Match the serum to PIH, melasma, sun-related pigment or another defined concern.

Choose a pigment serum →

Devices

The hardware still has to survive ownership.

Light

LED Masks and Panels

Wavelength, output, dose, schedule, eye protection, exact-device evidence and price inflation.

Read the LED file →

Current

Microcurrent

Temporary tone is not a portable facelift. Gel, protocol, evidence, and how long the result survives after the device turns off.

Read the microcurrent file →

Heat

At-Home Radiofrequency

Warmth is not a collagen contract. Device-specific evidence, temperature controls, use schedule and safety cutoffs.

Read the RF file →

Ownership

Device Maintenance Math

Hardware plus gels, charging, replacement parts and minutes multiplied by the schedule you will actually keep.

Run the ownership math →

Products + ingredients

The live files are already on the desk.

Daily protection

Sunscreen You Will Actually Use

The label matters. So do film, finish, amount, reapplication and whether the bottle survives real life.

Read the sunscreen file →

Barrier

Ceramides

Barrier architecture, not generic moisture language. Ratios and finished-formula context still matter.

Read the ceramide file →

Acid

Azelaic Acid

Clinical receipts exist. Concentration, vehicle and the actual job still decide whether a particular bottle earns its place.

Read the azelaic acid file →

Open the full Ingredient & Mechanism Glossary → for the broader index rather than turning this page into a second glossary.

How this desk reads a product

Where an object file differs from a claim file.

A product review here runs the same eight passes as everything else on this site. Then it adds the two questions only hardware and bottles force: how does this thing fail, and would you buy it again at full price after a year of charging it, cleaning it, replacing the gel, and remembering to use it. The passes decide whether the claim holds. Those two decide whether you would live with it.

Clinical value, functional value and pleasure are kept in separate columns on purpose. A product can be a delight and a poor treatment. It can be evidence-backed and completely wrong for your face. Collapsing those into a single score is how shopping guides stop being useful.

A product should enter the site through a question, not a shopping slot.

Bring the exact claim — not the category — and let the desk separate signal from theater.

Browse Verdicts → · Open the Claim Decoder →

The Register of Unproven Claims

Claims on the box, examined

The box is allowed to be beautiful. These are the sentences on it that have been checked against the published evidence, and the dates that checking happened.

  • Daily sunscreen prevents visible skin ageing Established

    Randomised, in people, over four and a half years, measured on skin rather than in a survey. It holds.

  • Beef tallow as a skincare base No adequate source found

    Claims for acne, eczema and psoriasis are common on social video and largely uncited; a 2025 analysis found most promoting posts showed financial bias.

  • Polynucleotide injections regenerate the skin Thinly supported

    Nine studies, all rated low or moderate quality, covering 219 patients between them. Real signal, and nowhere near enough of it to conclude.

  • Topical NAD+ and NMN serums Untested as claimed

    No controlled human trial of topical NAD+ or NMN with skin endpoints has been published. The formulation literature exists because the molecule penetrates poorly.

Open the Register →