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Vanity or Vice

Current files · 14 published

When It Goes Wrong

The part of aesthetics the consultation skips. Complications, adverse events, burns, occlusions, nodules, pigment that arrives instead of leaving — what the early signs look like, what counts as an emergency, and how to document and escalate when a clinic goes quiet.

Evidence card: the claim "A pale patch on brown skin is vitiligo." set against the cohort that was actually measured.

Sep 14, 2026

Under the Lens, Vitiligo and a Faded Rash Look the Same

In 150 patients with patchy leg pigment, 85 percent of the patches were pale rather than dark — and the dermoscopic features of vitiligo and post-inflammatory depigmentation were indistinguishable. One of those two words changes how a person lives.

Evidence card: the claim "Darker skin types are more prone to paradoxical hypertrichosis after laser hair removal." set against the cohort that was actually measured.

Sep 13, 2026

Zero Point Three Four Percent. Or Sixteen Point Two. Pick One.

Laser hair removal sometimes grows hair instead of removing it. The reported incidence spans a factor of fifty, the meta-analysis has 97 percent heterogeneity, and the pooled data could not establish any link to skin type at all — which is the opposite of what everyone says.

Evidence card: the claim "Injectable body contouring abroad is a cheaper version of the same procedure." set against the cohort that was actually measured.

Sep 13, 2026

Some of Them Presented Decades Later

Twelve patients from the Bronx, all Hispanic, nine on Medicaid, with complications from silicone and biopolymer injections performed in five countries and by unlicensed providers at home. Migration, granuloma, embolization, hypercalcemia. The interval between injection and catastrophe was sometimes measured in decades.

Evidence card: the claim "Henna tattoos are a harmless traditional decoration." set against the cohort that was actually measured.

Sep 13, 2026

Black Henna Is Not Henna

Market samples have been measured at 29.5 percent para-phenylenediamine — five times the legal ceiling for a hair dye, applied directly to skin, for hours, usually on a child. In one Spanish clinic cohort, half of all PPD-sensitized children traced it to a henna tattoo. The sensitization is permanent.

Evidence card: the claim "The Nd:YAG laser is safe for dark skin." set against the cohort that was actually measured.

Sep 13, 2026

Safer for Dark Skin Is Not the Same Sentence as Safe

The epidermal thermal risk from a 1064 nm laser runs from 10.7% in the palest skin to 55.0% in the deepest. That is the wavelength everybody correctly calls the safe one. Both facts are in the same modeling, and only one of them gets repeated.

Evidence card: the claim "Topical steroid misuse for lightening is a narrow, clobetasol-specific problem." set against the cohort that was actually measured.

Sep 13, 2026

The Ingredient in the Fairness Cream That Nobody Lists

In a Sudanese survey of 217 women, 69.6% had used a clobetasol-based product to lighten their skin, and 68.6% had stretch marks from it. In an Indian multicenter study of 2,926 patients, 90.5% of topical steroid users on the face had an adverse effect. The drug is legitimate. The use is not, and it is everywhere.